When it comes to tailored jackets, one immediately thinks of measurements. Although “tailor-made” is an important characteristic (a “made to measure” garment is unique and guarantees a better fit to the wearer), its handcrafting and the quality of the materials are not to be overlooked.
Fabric, horsehair, canvas, roll, linings, and thread, together with manual workings such as the overall frame, sleeve-closure, the under-stitch on the bottom of the jacket and the sleeves, the closure of the collar, buttonholes, buttons, and the distribution of the slowness of the linings, are essential in obtaining a high quality tailored garment both in terms of aesthetics and durability.
The overall frame is fundamental for a quality jacket because it defines a shape that will not change over time as it is used. Crafting it requires experience and a particular skill because the “canvas” is manually fixed between the fabric and the lining so that the fabric can cling to the body in a totally natural way. The canvas can be made of wool and horsehair or camel hair. The choice of one material rather than another determines the jacket’s hold. In rigid canvases, the jacket falls plumb, taking on a typically British style. Where soft and thin canvases are used, such as the one we usually use, the jacket is softer and gives the impression of an impalpably light weave, typical of the Neapolitan tradition. Before it is worked, the canvas is soaked in cast iron tubs and left to dry for 24 hours so that it clings better to the fabric.